Showing posts with label lamp repair. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lamp repair. Show all posts

Friday, April 3, 2020

Halogen Lamp Electronic Dimmable Transformers Explained

Halogen bulbs have been around the market for a while. They offer bright light in compact units. Most halogen lighting is for specialty purposes: track lighting, under cabinet lighting, and security lights. Because they are not in most common applications, they seem to be a little more challenging to trouble shoot.

For this post, we will discuss the dimmable transformers used in halogen lighting. These are mostly found in under-cabinet applications. The transformer is used to convert the 110 Volt alternating current (the power supply to most North American home wiring) to a 12 volt direct current. The 12 volts applications carry fewer amps and allow smaller wires from bulb to bulb. These smaller wires are easier to manage and conceal in tight spaces.

Halogen Lamp Electronic Dimmable Transformer
48468 - Halogen Lamp Electronic Dimmable Transformer

To connect the transformer to the home power supply, connect the black and white wires to the house wires. Most house wires are also black and white. The black wire is the hot and the white wire is the neutral wire. If you are planning to plug this transformer into an outlet and connect it to a cord set (with plug), you will need to connect the black wire to the smooth cord that plugs into the thin blade of the outlet.


From the transformer, there is also a pair of red wires. They will carry the 12 volts to power the halogen bulbs. While the 12 volt DC current has a plus and minus side, the halogen bulbs to not have to tie to a certain side. (NOTE: If you are using this transformer to power 12 volt LED bulbs, you will need to keep the positive and negative sides consistent.) Also, remember the halogen bulbs must be rated for 12 volt circuit.


Most of these applications will have more than one bulb on the transformer, so you will need to keep the circuit organized where the + is on one side and the - is on the other.

Transformer -/+ bulb -/+ bulb -/+ bulb -/+ bulb -/+ bulb

Not: Transformer -/+ bulb -/+ bulb +/- bulb -/+ bulb -/+ bulb

With all the wires in place and transformer connected, you are ready to power the circuit and test the lamps. If you want to add a dimmer, that would be included at the wall switch or inline switch on the 110 volt side of the transformer.







Tuesday, August 27, 2019

Light Care 101: How to Make Light Bulbs Last




By Ann Gapasin

Do you have to change light bulbs frequently?

Are your electric bills unusually high?

You may lack proper light bulb care!

3 Types of Light Bulb for Lamps

You’ve seen stacks of energy-efficient bulbs in hardware stores. If you’re the girl/boy scout type, you probably have some kept in the kitchen drawer in case of an emergency. But do you understand the kind of bulbs that you use? Do you know that there are other options out there?

Incandescent, compact fluorescent light (CFL), and halogen light bulbs are the most basic kinds available on the market these days. This article will walk you through each of them so you can make an informed decision as to which is the best bulb for you.

Incandescent Bulbs

This is the most traditional type, and almost all of us are familiar with it. Incandescent bulbs produce a warm glow that is ideal for creating a cozy mood or when highlighting color in a room. However, it is the least efficient and will have to be replaced more often than others.

Incandescent A19 Bulb


The high-temperature tungsten filament produces visible light with infrared waves.

Only 3% to 8% of the energy that they consume is transformed into visible light. The rest becomes heat.

       The average lifespan is only approximately 1,000 hours.
       Imposes challenges when it comes to recycling
       May cause eye strain
       Generally fragile: sensitive to voltage and temperature fluctuations and presence of water.

CFL (Compact Fluorescent Light) Bulbs

CFLs are today’s superstar when it comes to lamp bulbs. They are the most energy-efficient and can be found in different shapes. These bulbs use much less electricity than incandescent and even last much longer. However, they incline to emanate cold light, similar to halogens. This makes CFLs more appropriate in shaded areas. Furthermore, they contain mercury, which means they must be handled with extreme caution.

Compact Fluorescent Bulb (CFL) Spiral Top

        Electrons triggered by mercury vapor releases UV.
        15% to 20% of energy is converted into visible light.
        CFLs tend to last at least ten times longer than incandescent.
        There is a possibility of mercury vapor leak, so special handling is required during disposal and recycling.
        CFLs are also vulnerable to voltage fluctuations
        You must wait for several minutes for its output to the peak.

Light Emitting Diodes (LED)

These deviate from the traditional way on how light bulbs work. LED does not have a filament. Instead, they pass current across a semiconductor to produce light. Because they do not have filaments that will slowly burn out, they require less replacement.

Edison Style Filament LED A19 Bulb


LEDs are considerably more efficient than incandescent and CFLs because their waste thermal radiation is much lower. Earlier varieties were criticized for taking too long to reach the peak output. But this aspect has been improved and newer types light up immediately.

        LEDs are electroluminescent.
        They convert 90% to 99% of energy into visible light.
        They can last for up to 60,000 hours or more.
        This type of light bulb is easier to recycle.
        Their robust structure allows them to withstand harsh conditions.

How to Take Care of Lamp Bulbs

Learning how to take care of your lamps not only prevents frequent trips to the hardware store, it is also an effective way to avoid unnecessary inconvenience and safety hazards.

Don’t Touch the Light Bulb While It Is Still Hot

Light bulbs produce heat. And the longer you leave them on, the hotter they become. Heat causes the metallic filament within the bulbs to become brittle. According to Sunrise Electrician, a trusted Tampa electrician, you are subjecting the thread to more vibrations when you move the lamp while it is still hot. A combination of heat and vibration will surely trim a hundred hours or so from your light bulb’s lifespan.

This precaution should also be applied during installation. A bulb installed in a mobile place will also become mobile.  This means that those bulbs installed in hanging pendants tend to have a shorter lifespan. Same goes with the lamp inside your fridge: it shakes every time you slam the door. For this kind of application, make sure to use bulbs with reinforced filaments.

Limit the Use of the On Button

If you’re leaving the room for only a brief period, it might be wiser just to leave the lights on. This is because every single time that you turn the switch on, you are subjecting the light bulbs to a blast of power. It takes faster than a blink of an eye for the current to reach the filament.

What does this mean? It means the filament’s temperature will rise from a cozy 70°F to 3000 70°F in less than a second. If you flip the switch too often, the filament will break in no time. One of the common symptoms of a filament problem is flickering lights.

But it is essential to know that flickering lights can also be caused by a more severe problem. The most common is an overloaded circuit. Electricians advise to call them during light bulb replacement so that they can check if there are other issues within your electrical system.

Let the Light Bulbs Run at Low Power

Running on low power is another secret of long-life incandescent bulbs. Power equates to heat, which means less power is less heat. And less heat is equivalent to less stress on your light bulb filament.

Common houses in the country run on 110. So if you use a bulb with a 130V rating, it will operate using a power that is 15% less than it is capable of handling.  You may also take advantage of dimmer switches. These devices lower the voltage that comes to the bulb, reducing their burden.


Keep in mind that the primary purpose of light bulb care is to save on resources. That being said: do you think it is more practical to extend the life of incandescent bulbs of your brass lamps by dimming and avoiding the switch button? Or is it time to move to more energy-efficient products?  Take to a licensed electrician on how to make your home safer and friendlier to the environment.

This article was written by Ann Gapasin. Thank you, Ann, for your contribution to this blog.

Monday, May 20, 2019

Cracked Black Plastic Sockets Are An Easy Fix

Many lamps today are made with inexpensive components. Specifically, I mean the black plastic sockets used in most household table lamps. These sockets are brittle and easily chipped and cracked. If you are like me and often shop in the closeout section or the "imperfect" type of store, you will easily find these sockets cracked, chipped, and often missing on the lamps for sale. The good news is they are really easy to fix.


As this video demonstrates, there are 3 parts of the plastic socket: cap (bottom), shell (top), and the socket interior. The shell screws on to the cap and can be replaced in a few minutes.


Don't let those cracked, chipped or bent lamp parts keep you from getting the lamp you like.

Friday, March 29, 2019

Antique Panlight Chandelier Needs New Wires and Sockets

A customer brought in this fixture the other day and asked for it to be rewired. Panlight fixtures are on my long list of favorites. The way these fixtures are decorative and simple at the same time is really why I like them. They are specific to the early to mid 20th century and are perfect for restoration.

Antique Panlight Fixture - Ready for restoration



First, we need to inspect the lamp and make a list of parts needed for the repair.

Some obvious things include:

5 - Medium Base Adjustable Fixture Sockets

48208i - Medium Base, Adjustable Keyless Candle Socket, adjusts from 4" to 5-3/4" tall
5 - 4 Inch White Paper Candle Covers
19814T - 3 inch Smooth Flat White Color Paper Standard Candle Covers
Wire - Antique Brass Colored SPT-1 Spooled Wire
46608 - Antique Brass, 250 Ft. Spool, Plastic 18/2 Lamp Cord - Wire, SPT-1 size
48509 - Large Wire Connector with spiral threaded metal insert
5 - Clear Plastic Cord Bushings
26918 - Clear Plastic Pipe Bushing and Lamp Cord Protector for 1/8 IPS Pipe


Note - For smaller projects, you can use cord sets and cut off the plug. You want to make sure not to have any "extra" connections or spliced wire when it's not needed. 

With all the parts located, we are ready to disassemble the fixture. We start by removing the old candle covers. Then we unscrew the wires from the old socket screw terminals. The old sockets have a threaded base that unscrew from the fixture arm. 






Next, we open the Panlight body by unscrewing the bottom finial. The body has two parts: a top and a bottom pan.






These cloth covered wires seem to be original. They were made of good copper, but the plastic insulation breaks down over time and becomes brittle. The crack can expose the copper wire to the lamp body creating an electrical short and a dangerous fixture.

Last, we will remove the decorative cups on each of the arms and remove the old wire. Now the fixture is completely disassembled and ready to be rewired.





Each arm will have a socket, bushing, and wire routed to the middle of the pan. Connecting the wire to the socket terminals needs to be consistent. The smooth wire should connect to the brass screw terminal and the ribbed wire should connect to the nickel screw terminal.







With all the sockets wired and the wires in the pan, we will add a 6th wire. This wire will connect to the canopy and the house wires. Each wire should be stripped about 1/2 inch and connected with a wire nut. The smooth wires in one connection and the ribbed wires in another connection.






With all the connections complete, the wires are tucked inside the bottom pan. Join the top and bottom pans together and insert the rod on the bottom finial to hold the pans in place. The sixth wire is threaded up the top pan and through the chain and finally into the canopy.




At this point you can test the lamp. Add bulbs to the sockets. Keep your distance from the sockets while you power the 6th line. Remember, the smooth wire represents the hot/black/small side of the plug on the home wires and the ribbed wire is the neutral/white/wide side of the plug. Keeping theses wires in order keeps the lamp polarized.



Looking good and almost complete. Finally we add the candle covers for the complete look.



Another Panlight Fixture ready for the next 100 years of service. Total Cost < $30 Total time ~ 1 hour

Friday, August 31, 2018

Can you use a standard bulb in a 3-way socket?

Most sockets require you to have a matching bulb. A mogul socket would require a mogul bulb and a GU-24 socket requires a GU-24 bulb. 3-Way sockets do not have the same requirement. I would say that most 3-way sockets probably don't have 3-way bulbs in them because they can operate a standard light bulb.

How can you tell if the socket is 3-way?


You can look inside the socket for the second bulb contact.


Without removing the bulb, you can tell a three way just by turning the knob as demonstrated in this video:


3-Way bulbs aren't for everyone. They are more expensive than standard bulbs and in some instances they might be too bright.

Friday, August 24, 2018

Repair Table Lamp Socket

Sometimes the table lamp quits working. After a few bulbs, you realize it need more that just a bulb. In this video we demonstrate how easy repairing a socket can be. Not all repairs and lamps are the same.



The socket interior used in this video is a 3-way turn knob interior.

48207i - 3-Way turn-knob medium base E26 lamp socket interior for 3-Way bulbs, short mandrel, 250W- 250V