How to Open a Metal Table Lamp Socket

Metal lamp sockets are designed for the cap and shell to clip together. Removing them is easy. Here is a short demonstration:

These sockets are stamped brass. There are also spun brass sockets with a metal coupling holding the cap and shell together.

How to Create a Lamp from a Tin Canister with Decal

A customer brought in this canister the other day and wanted it to be made into a lamp. The can already had a 3/8 inch center hole in the top and bottom, so it was ready to be wired.

The first thing we do is gather all the lamp parts needed for the job: threaded rod, brass nuts, brass neck, harp base, lamp cord, and socket. For this lamp the customer wanted a heavy turned brass socket.

Now we plan for the lamp. Thinking about where the cord will exit the base and whether there is a front and back to this lamp. With the design on the canister, there is an obvious front so we want the cord to exit the back. We mark the spot on the can and carve out a notch.

Next we install the threaded rod through the canister. This canister has a shallow base and we need to make sure the nut and the cord will not stick out past the side walls on the base.

It is going to be a tight fit, but should work. The threaded rod is measured and cut to length. The bottom nut goes on first followed by the neck and the harp base.

Next the top nut is placed on the threaded rod and is tightened. We notice the top of the can is starting to bow a little with the pressure, so we plan to add a seating ring to widen the base of the neck and reduce the pressure point.

The seating ring is set between the canister and the neck. With the harp base correctly orientated to the front and back of the lamp the top nut is tightened. The socket cap is attached to the threaded rod. Note: These heavy brass sockets have a coupling holding the socket cap and shell together. The coupling must be on the lamp prior to the socket cap being attached.

The lamp cord is pushed through the threaded rod and a UL knot is tied. The cord is wired to the socket interior. The smooth wire connects to the brass screw and the ribbed wire connects to the silver screw. The cord slack is pulled back through the body of the lamp.

The socket shell is attached to the socket cap and a bulb is added for testing.

Nice! Total cost < $25.00 Total Time < 45 minutes

Swivel Arm Table Lamp with Turn Knob Candle Socket

A customer brought in this patient the other day and complained the socket was not working. The socket's knob had striped threads so it would spin but not turn on the lamp.

Upon more inspection, the lamp cord was not polarized. The lamp parts needed for this repair include a new turn knob fixture style socket and a lamp cord with molded plastic plug.

The first thing to do is un-wire the lamp socket. This socket has a candle cover instead of a cap and shell. The candle cover is held on by the turn knob. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, the turn knob is removed.

With the plastic knob and tiny metal mandrel extender, the plastic socket comes off. The socket cord is disconnected and the socket removed from the lamp. The vase cap and candle cup below the socket are removed as well. 

With the socket removed, the next step will be to replace the old lamp cord with a new polarized lamp cord. The first step is to turn the lamp over and cut a semicircle in the bottom felt on the lamp. Then we start to remove the caps on the swivel. 

Remove all the caps on the swivel and trim the excess cord from the top of the swivel arm.

Using our tiny clamps, as noted in our specialty lamp tools section, the old lamp cord is slowly pried from each point on the swivel. This is a slow process. 

Moving down the swivel, we continue to remove the cord from the lamp.

Reversing the process, the new lamp cord is threaded up the swivel in the same manor. Note: It is important to keep the cord from twisting. The joints on a swivel are so tight, a twisted cord would be nearly impossible. 

After the cord is through the base, pull enough slack out of the cord to make it all the way through the swivel. Do not worry about excess slack; it can be cut from the top. Too little cord and you will be feeding through every joint again.

Crack your knuckles and get ready for the fun. Using your clamps, pull the cord up the lamp one section at a time. Since you measured the length you can pull all the slack you have through each section.

Almost there.

Now you've done it! The threaded rod gets put back on the top of the swivel. The other parts are placed on the lamp too: candle cup, seating ring, and the fixture socket. 

Work the swivel around a bit for the cord to flex. 

Rewire the socket to the lamp with the new lamp cord. The excess cord is removed from the lamp and a UL knot is tied in the cord. The smooth wire connects to the brass screw and the ribbed cord connects to the silver screw, for polarity. 

The candle cover is placed on top the socket and the turn knob reattached. 

Replace the caps in the swivel and add a bulb to test the lamp. 

Good job! Total time: < 1 hour Total cost: < $15.00