Friday, February 2, 2018

Rewiring A Bridge Arm Floor Lamp Socket and Cord

A customer brought in this bridge arm floor lamp the other day and asked for it to be repaired. The socket was no longer working and they wanted it fixed. We identify this as a bridge arm floor lamp from the top piece being a Bridge Arm.

11998i - 12" Cast Iron "Bows & Clovers" Bridge Lamp Arm

From the pictorial lamp part index, we can see the parts list for a bridge arm lamp.

As usual, we start with an inspection of the lamp. Other than the socket not operating, we find the plug is not polarized. The customer agrees to replace the cord set with a matching antique brass color cord.

The lamp parts needed for this repair include:

1 - Antique Brass Push-thru Socket with UNO Threaded Shell

48280A - Brass Early Electric Style Lamp Socket, Antique BRASS Finish, Push-Thru, On/Off function, UNO Thread Shell
1 - 12 foot Unfinished Brass Cord Set
46727 - 12 Ft. Length, Unfinished Brass Color, Lamp Cord Set, 18/2 SPT-1A
First, we want to make sure the lamp is unplugged. We start to disassemble the lamp by opening the socket. With a flat head screw driver, pry open the socket by putting pressure on the socket shell near the socket cap.

Slide the socket shell off the socket interior and unscrew the wire terminals.

Unscrew the socket cap from the bridge arm swivel.

Now, we will pull the new lamp cord up from the base of the lamp and through the bridge lamp arm. Since the old cord is being discarded, we will use it as a feed line. Cut off the old plug and strip the cord. Attach the new cord to the old cord and pull the new cord up the lamp toward the bridge arm.

Screw the new socket cap on the bridge arm and completely pull the cord up the lamp.

Remove the old cord from the new cord. Split the new cord ends and tie a UL knot in the cord. Attach the new socket interior to the cord. The smooth cord connects to the brass screw terminal and the ribbed cord connects to the nickel screw terminal. Pull any cord slack from the socket back down to the base of the lamp and slide the socket shell over the interior. Snap the socket shell into the socket cap.

Note: With UNO style sockets, the shade usually mounts on the end of the socket with an UNO shade holder. It is really important to check the socket shell and make sure it is securely fastened into the socket cap.

Add a bulb and test the lamp.

Total cost <$15.00 Total time < 40 minutes


  1. I have a H. E. Raunald floor bridge lamp.

    The cord Wiring has dry rot and is inside the arm, it is broken where I cannot reach it at the bridge and the bridge arm seems like it does not come off of the lamp post, asking for help!

  2. My bridge lamp has stamped on bottom either 1-4-1 2 or I-4-I 2 ? Can you help me with age please says patented too ty

  3. So excited to find this! I found a cast iron, bridge arm, sea horse floor lamp in my mother's cellar when I was closing down her home. Must have come with the house, which was not our childhood home. Have carried it around for years, hoping to fix it. Her "fix it" man made it usable, but not with the right kind of lampshade.

    Thank you for the tutorial! Now I can return it to its as-close-as-possible original state with upgraded wiring.

  4. Truly, this article is really one of the very best in the history of articles. I am a antique ’Article’ collector and I sometimes read some new articles if I find them interesting. And I found this one pretty fascinating and it should go into my collection. Very good work!