Tuesday, January 9, 2018

Crystal Table Lamp with Mismatch Parts Needs Work

A customer brought in this lamp the other day and wanted several things addressed: 1) socket was worn, 2) harp was bent, 3) nothing on the top matched the bottom. The hardware on the top of the lamp was brass plated and had turned to a dark color. The base, rod, and cord set of the lamp were nickel. The owner preferred nickel so we are going to make all the hardware match.



After a quick inspection, we determine the lamp parts needed for this repair include:

1 - Nickel plated harp, which comes with a nickel plated harp saddle (base)
12758N - 9" harp, regular weight, nickel finish
1 - Heavy Turned Brass Nickel Plated Socket
48243SN - 3-Way, Turned Brass Lamp Socket (E26) with Satin Nickel finish, no UNO thread
1 - Nickel Plated Flared Steel Neck
21161N - Nickel Plated Finish Flared Steel Neck
1 - Heavy Steel 1/8F Hex Nut
20705 - Heavy 1/8F, Steel Counter Sunk Hexnut


1 - 11/16" Nickel Plated Brass Neck, Tap 1/8F
10949N - 11/16" Nickel Plated Brass Neck, Slips 1/8 IP
1 - Nickel Plated 3/8 Inch Brass Tube
10328N - Nickel Plated 3/8 Inch Brass Tube
1 - 5 1/2 Inch Nickel Plated Brass Finish Modern Style Spun Lamp Base
10062N - 5.5 Inch Nickel Plated Brass Finish Modern Style Spun Lamp Base
 1 - 8 foot Clear Silver Lamp Cord Set
46713 - 8 ft. Length, Clear Silver, 18/2 Lamp Cord Set, SPT-1
First, we make sure the lamp is unplugged. Then, we start disassembling the lamp. We remove the socket shell, harp, socket interior, socket cap, harp base and slide the old necks off the top of the lamp.












Now, we remove the lamp body from the threaded rod. The body of this lamp has become dull and dirty with age. This is the perfect time to clean it up and make it look new again. We turn the base over and remove the felt bottom. Also, the original lamp base has a weighted insert (also known as a “loader” in industry jargon) to keep the lamp from easily tipping over. The loader has a threaded center hole that allows a sturdy connection to the threaded rod that runs from the lamp socket to the lamp base. Unscrew the rod from the loader/base and the lamp comes apart.







We are now ready to reassemble the lamp. The threaded rod screws into the loader. Then, the base and nickel rod slips over the threaded rod onto the loader.





After a quick bath and a little scrubbing the old lamp body parts look good as new. The crystal body pieces slip over the nickel rod and down to the base. Then the flared neck and threaded neck connect to the lamp.







Next, the hex nut screws onto the threaded rod and binds against the threaded neck. This secures the lamp body from the base to the bottom of the socket. Then, the harp saddle slips onto the lamp rod.



Before we screw on the socket cap to the threaded rod, the heavy turned brass socket has a collar to hold the cap and shell together. That collar must rest on the harp base. This socket also has a set screw to tighten the rod to help prevent it from coming loose.




Next, we push the new clear silver lamp cord up the lamp from the side hole in the lamp base, and the threaded rod and out the socket cap.




Now, tie a UL Knot in the lamp cord and attach the socket interior. The smooth cord connects to the brass screw and the ribbed cord connects to the nickel screw for polarity. Pull any cord slack back down the lamp from the base and slip the socket shell over the socket interior. Lift and tighten the socket collar to secure the socket cap and shell.





Add a bulb and test the lamp.


Finished! Total cost <$60 Total time < 1 hour

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