Cluster Removal and Floor Lamp Rewired

A customer brought in this floor lamp the other day and wanted to change the socket arrangement. The lamp had a 2 socket cluster with pull chain sockets on each side. This limits the shade options to rectangle or large, to fit over these two sockets. The customer instead wanted only 1 socket with a harp. It would really open the shade styles and sizes for this lamp.

As with every repair or replacement, we inspect the lamp and make a parts list. For this repair, we need:

1) Heavy turned socket in Antique Bronze finish.

1) Harp Saddle in matching Antique Bronze finish

1) 18 Inch Threaded rod

1) Harp in Matching Antique Bronze Finish (Size depends on shade)

First, we want to remove the old cluster and get down to the threaded rod. The wire nuts are clipped off and the lamp and the cluster unscrews from the rod.

We continue to remove the check ring, tubing and other body pieces to find the other end of that old threaded rod. All of the parts are slipped onto the lamp.

With the other threaded end found, we can unscrew the old threaded rod from the lamp.

Our new threaded rod goes right back on the lamp. These thread sizes are universal in the lighting industry and are known as 1/8IP. They measure about 3/8 inch wide. The replacement rod is fully threaded from one end to the other. This allows the user to tighten as much as needed to get the right height (handy for replacement or repair). You could also cut the rod down to the desired length without re-threading the rod. With the new rod on the lamp, we can start to replace the floor lamp parts.

Now we are ready for the harp base or harp saddle.

Next the socket ring and socket cap go on the lamp. The socket ring sits on the harp saddle while the socket cap screws onto the threaded rod. This socket has a locking screw to keep the socket in place.

Now we are ready to tie a UL Knot in the lamp cord and attach the rest of the socket. The cord is split, tied, and stripped. The smooth wire connects to the brass screw and the ribbed wire connects to the nickel plated screw. The socket shell slides over the socket interior and is held to the socket cap with the screw collar.

Now we can add a bulb and test the lamp.

Brilliant! Another proper lamp repair. Total Cost < $30 Total Time < 45 minutes

Crystal Table Lamp with Mismatch Parts Needs Work

A customer brought in this lamp the other day and wanted several things addressed: 1) socket was worn, 2) harp was bent, 3) nothing on the top matched the bottom. The hardware on the top of the lamp was brass plated and had turned to a dark color. The base, rod, and cord set of the lamp were nickel. The owner preferred nickel so we are going to make all the hardware match.

After a quick inspection, we determine the lamp parts needed for this repair include:

1 - Nickel plated harp, which comes with a nickel plated harp saddle (base)

12758N - 9" harp, regular weight, nickel finish

1 - Heavy Turned Brass Nickel Plated Socket

48243SN - 3-Way, Turned Brass Lamp Socket (E26) with Satin Nickel finish, no UNO thread

1 - Nickel Plated Flared Steel Neck

21161N - Nickel Plated Finish Flared Steel Neck

1 - Heavy Steel 1/8F Hex Nut

20705 - Heavy 1/8F, Steel Counter Sunk Hexnut

1 - 11/16" Nickel Plated Brass Neck, Tap 1/8F

10949N - 11/16" Nickel Plated Brass Neck, Slips 1/8 IP

1 - Nickel Plated 3/8 Inch Brass Tube

10328N - Nickel Plated 3/8 Inch Brass Tube

1 - 5 1/2 Inch Nickel Plated Brass Finish Modern Style Spun Lamp Base

10062N - 5.5 Inch Nickel Plated Brass Finish Modern Style Spun Lamp Base

 1 - 8 foot Clear Silver Lamp Cord Set

46713 - 8 ft. Length, Clear Silver, 18/2 Lamp Cord Set, SPT-1

First, we make sure the lamp is unplugged. Then, we start disassembling the lamp. We remove the socket shell, harp, socket interior, socket cap, harp base and slide the old necks off the top of the lamp.

Now, we remove the lamp body from the threaded rod. The body of this lamp has become dull and dirty with age. This is the perfect time to clean it up and make it look new again. We turn the base over and remove the felt bottom. Also, the original lamp base has a weighted insert (also known as a “loader” in industry jargon) to keep the lamp from easily tipping over. The loader has a threaded center hole that allows a sturdy connection to the threaded rod that runs from the lamp socket to the lamp base. Unscrew the rod from the loader/base and the lamp comes apart.

We are now ready to reassemble the lamp. The threaded rod screws into the loader. Then, the base and nickel rod slips over the threaded rod onto the loader.

After a quick bath and a little scrubbing the old lamp body parts look good as new. The crystal body pieces slip over the nickel rod and down to the base. Then the flared neck and threaded neck connect to the lamp.

Next, the hex nut screws onto the threaded rod and binds against the threaded neck. This secures the lamp body from the base to the bottom of the socket. Then, the harp saddle slips onto the lamp rod.

Before we screw on the socket cap to the threaded rod, the heavy turned brass socket has a collar to hold the cap and shell together. That collar must rest on the harp base. This socket also has a set screw to tighten the rod to help prevent it from coming loose.

Next, we push the new clear silver lamp cord up the lamp from the side hole in the lamp base, and the threaded rod and out the socket cap.

Now, tie a UL Knot in the lamp cord and attach the socket interior. The smooth cord connects to the brass screw and the ribbed cord connects to the nickel screw for polarity. Pull any cord slack back down the lamp from the base and slip the socket shell over the socket interior. Lift and tighten the socket collar to secure the socket cap and shell.

Add a bulb and test the lamp.

Finished! Total cost <$60 Total time < 1 hour