snap type plastic bushing in the hole to insulate the cord and protect if from rubbing against the metal edges on the socket cap.
Next we will cut the cord to length and wire the plug. The owner asked the cord be 3 foot long. For wiring the plug and the socket, I want to add about 7 inches to the section of cord cut. I strip the rayon covering about 2 inches from the end of the cord then strip the wires about 3/8 inch. For safety and to help the rayon from unraveling a knot is tied in the cord. The new antique style plug is polarized with a small and large prong. This plug also has a brass and nickle screw. In this case the black wire goes to the brass screw and the white wire to the nickle screw. Using a flat-head screw driver, I firmly press the knot into the plug.
For wiring the socket another two inches of rayon is stripped and 3/8 inch of wire sheath. I tie a similar knot in the socket. This is not a UL knot, but serves the same purpose. The black wire connects to the brass screw and the white wire to the nickel screw. This solid brass antique style pushthru socket should have a front/back orientation not to interfere with the posts on the harp base. with the socket wired, I slip on the insulator and socket shell. The shell snaps into the socket cap with a click on both sides. Using your hand, grasp the socket shell and try to pull the shell from the cap. It should not come off without a tool prying the shell from the cap.
This lamp looks great and I think the customer will be happy with the way it turned out. After visually inspecting the lamp, I add a bulb and plug it in.